Alléno's baker, Frédéric Lalos, a winner of one of the country's fiercest cooking competitions, makes the buns. Yannick Alléno, who earned a third Michelin star in 2007 for his precise, rarefied cuisine at Le Meurice, serves a thick, succulent hamburger at his casual restaurant, Le Dali. Some of the most celebrated chefs in the city have taken up the challenge. "It's not just a fad," said Frédérick Grasser-Hermé, who, as consulting chef at the Champs-Élysées boîte Black Calvados, developed a burger made with wagyu beef and seasoned with what she calls a black ketchup of blackberries and black currants. These attempts to translate the burger, or maybe even improve it, strongly suggest that it is here to stay. Hamburgers were everything that French dining is not: informal, messy, fast and foreign.īut as French chefs have embraced the quintessentially American food, they have also made it their own, incorporating Gallic flourishes like cornichons, fleur de sel and fresh thyme.
It is a startling turnaround in a country where a chef once sued McDonald's for $2.7 million in damages over a poster that suggested he was dreaming of a Big Mac. "Eating with your hands, it's pure regression. "It has the taste of the forbidden, the illicit - the subversive, even," said Hélène Samuel, a restaurant consultant here. Anywhere tourists are likely to go this summer - in St.-Germain cafes, in fashion-world hangouts, even in restaurants run by three-star chefs - they are likely to find a juicy beef patty, almost invariably on a sesame seed bun. PARIS - Even if you couldn't be on the Champs-Élysées for Bastille Day on Monday to watch seven parachutists float down in front of President Nicolas Sarkozy, you can still celebrate the greatness of France with a new local tradition.īeginning a few years ago but picking up momentum in the past nine months, hamburgers and cheeseburgers have invaded the city.
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